[Film Mount] Everest Everest 2015. Remembering the tragedy of 1996; Senior Climber Death Risk Much Higher From beginner climber. Climbing Learning Directly From Senior. Porter Everest. porter Cartensz
"The
mountains are not stadiums where I satisfy my ambitions to achieve.
They are my cathedrals, the house of my religion. In the mountains I
attempt to understand my life." Anatoli Boukreev
Author: Beard INTO THIN AIR VS THE CLIMB
May 10, 1996 are the moments that are most critical in my life, recalls Sandy Hill Pittman. Although
he survived the most dramatic tragedy in climbing Mount Everest, but
the psychological trauma does not disappear in a short time.
Join the Mountain Madness Expedition with leader Scott Fischer (one
dead), he became one of the strongest of the eight other clients. But the writer who will not peel Sandy's profile. The
author re just trying to make a connection with a chronological
description of the tragedy of 1996 from two manuscripts Everest climbing
history 90s (Into Thin Air and The Climb).
One thing that the critical point is the failure of risk management
leader, so that this tragedy occurred in May 1996 and resulted in a
total of eight people died. Like what is the importance of risk management? but before we discuss that, let's look at the technical side targedi May 10, 1996 that occurred in the Red Zone Everest between the lines Hillary Step and Emergency in Southeast Ridge Camp (8500 meters).
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| Hillary Step |
Photo By: http://www.bmumagazine.com/Post.aspx?PostID=74
John Krakauer in his book Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mt. Everest
Disaster quite clearly concerned Anatoli Boukreev for not using his
oxygen tube and give it to her on the way Neal Beidleman Summit Attack,
as the action that caused it must immediately return to the last camp at
the South Col to refresh and warm the body more quickly than their
clients. Besides, it is
quite subjective John Krakauer blamed the resistance of climbers on the
Hillary Step and The Balcony up time climbing much wasted and ultimately
the majority of climbers either team Scott Fischer (Mountain Madness)
or Rob Hall (Adventure Consultants) could reach the top of Everest (8850
meters ) by 3 pm (except John, Andy Harris and Anatoli) to reach the
summit of everest at 1:12 pm.
In another book that becomes counter of Into Thin Air, which is The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest. Boukreev, Anatoli; G. Weston Dewalt (1997) peeled clearly the reasons that make Anatoli did not use oxygen up there.
I personally as a practitioner adventure understand what Anatoli. Is
not that evacuating Anatoli Sandy Hill Pittman, Charlotte Fox, and Tim
Madsen at the same time in the middle of a great storm in Camp V / North
Col (7900 meters) and had to leave Yasuko Namba (Japanese women
climbers) because the condition is already very close to death ?. Who later became a controversy like Anatoli ever say, "I,
m expressed profound regret at her lonely death, saying that she was
just a little 90-pound woman, and that someone should have dragged her
back to camp so she could at least among her companions die " . Further
along on the expedition Everest Expedition Team Indonesia, Anatoli
managed to find the bodies of Yasuko Namba above the height of 8000
meters and is buried in a simple and a few days after the summit, he
apologized to her husband because Yasuko had failed to save his life.
Meanwhile, with regard to the obstacles in the Hillary Step, in my
opinion, John Krakauer tend to emphasize his team (Adventure
Consultants), but at the same time, another team (Mountain Madness) also
are in the same place.
At the end of objectivity Into Thin Air plunge slowly and under Climb
after the magazine New Scientist article on the research raised the Kent
Moore, et al; which
proves the fact that a great storm was very bad on May 11, 1996 that
resulted in the drop in oxygen levels to only 14% of the usual rate of
30% at an altitude of over 24,000 feet. And
now people are more intelligent approach that Into Thin Air is an
outpouring John Krakauer while The Climb is an investigative narrative
Weston Dewalt as co-author.
Seemed to be the wrong address when the criticism thrown at Anatoli Jhon in Into Thin Air. Ideally
it (Jhon) more focus to discuss the responsibility as a guide Mike
Groom from Adventure Consultants where Jhon participate. And is a justification if there Anatoli on prioritized to save its own members (Mountain Madness).
And this also explains the reason why Anatoli leaving Yasuko Namba and let it freeze to death. And my personal opinion on this point that the book Into Thin Air shift towards an objective evaluation subjective. In addition, also when overtake Anatoli Jhon who is not wearing any oxygen tube down to the South Col at 2:30 Pm.
In one sentence in an official letter sent Anatoli on 31 July 1996 to Mark Bryant, Editor of the magazine Outside stated that " My
decisions and actions were based upon more than twenty years of high
altitude climbing experience. In my career I have summited Mount Everest
three times " . From
here quite visible if the mind of an expert would be far ahead even
before the tragedy occurred and spontaneity of a guide when deciding
down from the summit and leave the client running too slowly becomes an
important factor in the rescue.
In the words of the others mentioned also "I
have considered what might have happened had I not made a rapid
descent. My opinion: Given the weather conditions and the lack of
visibility that developed, I think it likely I would have died with the
client climbers that in the early hours of May 11, I was able to find
and bring to Camp IV, or I would have had to have left them on the
mountain to go for help in Camp IV, where, as was in the reality of
events that unfolded, there was nobody able or willing to conduct rescue
efforts " . It is clear that consideration of a Leader (guide) in every expedition are vital to the lives of the clients brought. Therefore
the majority of his clients live off on an expedition in height very
closely with the Leader and the quality of magnanimity clients do not
have to push to the summit if Leader (guide) said no.
Unfortunately, the clarification Anatoli quite decent in his official
letter was not reciprocated with the same thing by John Krakauer in his
official letter dated 24 August 1996, which was also addressed to the
editor of Outside magazine. At the end of his reply with enough emotional John Krakauer said ,
"Many of us who were on Everest last May made mistakes. As I indicated
in my article, my own actions may have contributed to the deaths of two
of my teammates. Anatoli is an extraordinary Himalayan climber, and I do
not doubt that his intentions were good on summit day. What troubles
me, though, is Anatoli's utter refusal to acknowledge the possibility
that he made even a single poor decision. not once has he ever indicated
to me that maybe , just maybe, it was not the smartest choice to climb
or go down without gas ahead of his clients. Anatoli doggedly insists
that he would make the same decisions all over again - in his opinion,
he was the only person on the mountain who did everything right. The
rest of us fucked up big-time, but not Anatoli " .
Unfortunately indeed, finally Anatoli had to be killed in a climbing
marathon is at the end of 1997, Annapurna (8078 meters), Simone Moro is a
partner of Anatoli on climbing Alpine Style is believed that the avalanche was the main cause of the loss of Anatoli and a few weeks later pronounced dead.
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| Anatoli Boukreev Memorial |
Photo By: http://www.flickr.com/photos/kimshi/3263870975/
MEANING OF UNITY?
Anatoli, Bashkirov and Vinogradsky is a successful example of
cooperation in a team that gave birth to the achievements on the
altitude. Together they do not solely for personal satisfaction or class time. Although
they all come from the same village (Russian) but their performance is
not yet achieved and village-level trapped admit it, even in difficult
times the end of 1997 when Anatoli missing on Annapurna.
If we want to observe it will be many benefits that we can take from two
major works feud Into Thin Air and The Climb Everest in connection with
the tragedy of 1996, which more fully into political motives and
publicity than the ascent itself.
ANALYSIS AUTHOR
Trying to make a review of the May 10 tragedy in Everest's quite difficult. I personally have several times made the hypotheses that are interconnected with a personal standpoint. But
at least I feel that most are at least four basic problems in the
tragedy of May 10, 1996, which later became famous because it was widely
publicized.
Four basic problems are:
- Leadership Structure (Organizational Leadership & Team)
- Communication (Radio Communication)
- Financial Concern (RAB Management and Budget)
- External Pressure (subjective factor)
We all know that rock climbing is a risky activity. Moreover, to climb Everest (8850 meters). Although
Everest is not the most difficult mountain to climb, it still requires a
calculation and patterns of good managerial team. The
Leaders of the two event organizers Adventure Consultants (Rob Hall)
and the Mountain Madness (Scott Fischer) have the notion that Everest
can be climbed with the conditions that they have set and if the client
can meet them.
But reality says another, tragedy ensued and claimed five of the team on
the night of May 10, 1996. Three of the five people who died in the
tragedy that is at high levels, the expedition team. They are Scott Fischer (Leader), Rob Hall (Leader) and Andy Harris (his Guide Rob Hall). How could two famous Everest expedition EO could lose their top officials,? What's wrong?
1. Leadership Structure
Decision-making in mountaineering is often very risky to the possibility
of the survival of the members of the expedition team, especially the
client. An important step
in the process of making this decision is to consider every possible
risk in the decisions taken, and that is where the Team Leader.
I think Rob Hall and Scott Fischer neglect to consider the consequences of the decisions they make. Both team they were very late to reach the summit of Everest on May 10, 1996 it. Usually a climber would cancel pedakiannya if after 3 pm can not reach the top. But the entire team of his team of climbers Rob Hall and Scott Fischer continued to climb despite the elapsed time of 3 pm.
Scott Fischer could not reach the top even though the time is at 15:40. Similarly, Doug Hansen (Clients Rob Hall) has not reached the peak after 16:00.
In addition, most members of the 1996 Everest expedition team also did
not know each other before the few weeks before the expedition carried
out. So there is no sense
of brotherhood (solidarity) is strong that the key factor in extreme
situations (caught in a storm) like that.
For example, when John Krakauer did not try to help Andy Harris (when
attacked by hypoxia) and Beck Weathers (Blinded) at that time. It happened because John did not know the two men. If
only Jhon know them surely will exert every effort to save him
(although I personally was a little skeptical if John would do it even
though they know better). I
think this is clearly a mistake Leader (Rob Hall and Scott Fischer) who
regard not so important interpersonal relationships in the team before
the expedition. And do not put it into the organizational structure of commercial expeditions.
So the organizational structure built by both the Leader I think the
main cause of their failure to return to Camp IV at an altitude of 7900
meters. In addition to
hiring a guide leader (Boukreev, Groom, Harris) are not conditioned to
the relationship between guide and client in familiar conditions. This
has become one of the causes clients to be vulnerable when your
accident does not have the authority to take decisions (new work after
losing her Leader).
Andy Harris, who became a guide Rob Hall was attacked by hypoxia when oxygen system is clogged with ice. And that led to Harris failed to deliver its clients. And failed again when called on to help Rob Hall and Hansen as they got stuck in the Hillary Step. And finally he also failed to save his life.
Anatoli as a guide Scott Fischer at the time the weather is still
friendly, could not tell the client to immediately return to Camp IV
(cancel the summit) because he did not have authority to it. But
it was the opposite when Anatoli become Leader team Indonesian Kopassus
1997 Everest Expedition, he looked dominant and mature in the
calculation of any strategy since the Training Center, Acclimatization
and Expedition. Bashkirov
and Vinogradsky role was created by Anatoli in order to consolidate and
familiar with the Indonesian team up at the critical point (Camp IV
Summit) each party can work well then.
2. Radio Communication & 3. Financial Concern
Mountain Madness team managed Scott Fischer clearly made a fatal mistake
by poor radio communication in the expedition which leads to leadership
in this expedition.
In mountaineering, distance between the team with logistical and backup team usually hundreds of meters apart. And radio communication is clearly a vital in organizing the logistics and movement of the emergency. And the fact Anatoli any communication difficulties during emergency conditions there. In
the Mountain Madness team, only Scott Fischer and Sirdar (Sherpa Jangbu
Lopsang) having radio communication at the Summit Attack.
A concrete example when Dale Kruse ill on the way to Camp II height,
Scott Fischer could not ask for help Anatoli, who was climbing far in
front. Why? Because Anatoli did not have the time Radio Communication. Scott
Fischer and consequently must Kruse drove back to Base camp and pursued
another team who are in Camp II only because of the lack of
communication with Anatoli. And this is what I believe to be the beginning of the collapse of the physical Scott Fischer.
Communication between the team of climbers and climbing basecamp on May 10 that I think are not standard. Traffic
news (message) was too risky for example when responsible Basecamp
(Ingrid Hunt) wants to communicate to the team at Camp IV, he told Ngima
Kale Sherpa to send a message to Gyalzen Sherpa in Camp II and then
forwarded to Pemba Sherpa and translated into English back by Pemba and
then until the message to Scott Fischer. The
communication system (radio) and use a language that is not integrated,
this also makes the complexity of the problems accumulated over there
and peak when the tragedy of May 10 night. This also is a fault in the structure of the leadership of Scott Fischer in an expedition.
And lack of radio communication in Mountain Madness team is also I think because of financial factors as well before. Up to a third factor budget problems already become one with the factors that cause the failure of Scott Fischer's expedition.
David Breashears, Visteurs Ed and Robert Schauer (IMAX Documentary Team)
who met the delegation Mountain Madness on the way (a few days earlier)
has also warned that the weather at the top of today is not safe to
climb.
I am sure colleagues know who the third person I referred to above. The
climbers full Breashears class experience when it takes into account
the probability to get dipuncak is not high because of unstable weather.
4. External Pressure
This is a classic problem that often occurs everywhere and very vital in determining the outcome of an expedition. Objectivity and scientific logic sometimes had to be buried deep when the subjective mind started to emerge.
Comments logical Breashears (IMAX Leader) and Boukreev concerns related
to weather problems that occurred in the discussion (Scott Fischer and
Rob Hall) at Camp IV was one factor that contributed to this tragedy.
Scott Fischer did not follow the advice of Breashears and Anatoli to reconsider its ascent to the summit. Thus he (Scott Fischer) even agree with what Rob Hall said. Impressed
that Scott Fischer was as a puppet Rob Hall in the decisions that are
vital (it was not only in Indonesia mindset adherents senior happen). I
guess not because Scott Fischer was an amateur, but more because of the
business that the benchmark results for Rob Hall droop rejected.
Rob Hall was a leader with a good reputation, while Scott Fischer is a new person in making (mem-package) a climb EO. As an American Scott Fischer, then seemed to obey all that Rob Hall said. It
is understandable that the majority of the business side of clients
Mountaineers 8000 are from the US, so that from the business side of
Scott Fischer will be a lot of benefit in the future if it remains on
good terms with Rob Hall.
And the most obvious of the External Pressure
or other benefit is that John Krakauer and Sandy Hill Pitman were two
American journalists that if Scott Fischer could join with them in the
top of the obvious compensation publicity already looking ahead. That is why the objective factors do not seem to be a priority again when they decided to summit on the morning of May 10. (Beard / 27-Jul-2011)
Free Download E-book Into Thin Air >> INTO THIN AIR Jon Krakauer
Buy The Climb; Tragic Ambitions on Everest. Anatoli Boukreev, G. Weston DeWalt
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